Garage Door Won’t Close All the Way in Lakeville, MN: The Real Reasons and What to Do Next
- 18 hours ago
- 7 min read
There are few things more annoying than a garage door that refuses to close all the way. You hit the button, it comes down, then stops two inches from the floor like it is being stubborn on purpose. Or it closes and immediately pops back up. Or you have to stand there holding the wall button like you are convincing it to finish the job.

If you are in Lakeville, this problem shows up a lot, especially during winter and the messy shoulder seasons when snow, slush, salt, and temperature swings mess with everything near the ground.
This guide will help you figure out what is going on, what you can safely check, what you should avoid, and when it makes sense to call The Garage Door Doctor so it gets fixed properly.
First, why a door will not close all the way
Garage doors do not randomly decide to stop. Most modern systems are designed to stop or reverse when they sense something unsafe.
When a door will not close all the way, it usually means one of these is happening:
The safety sensors think something is in the way
The door is hitting resistance near the bottom
The opener travel limits are off
The door is binding in the tracks
The bottom seal is stiff, damaged, or catching on the floor
The door is out of balance and the opener is struggling
Something is physically blocking the path, even something small
The good news is that many of these have simple clues you can spot quickly.
Quick safety note before you troubleshoot
If your door is reversing, slamming, looking crooked, or you see a cable that looks loose or frayed, stop and do not keep trying to force it.
A garage door is heavy. When springs, cables, or tracks are involved, guessing can turn a normal repair into a dangerous situation.
A solid homeowner friendly safety reference is DASMA, which explains why garage door service should often be handled by trained technicians.
If you want a professional to diagnose it fast, start with Garage Door Repair.
Step one: watch what it does when it tries to close
The pattern helps narrow the cause.
If it closes and then immediately opens back up
That often points to sensors or resistance. The opener thinks something is in the
way.
If it stops just before it touches the ground
That can be travel limits, bottom seal issues, or a floor contact problem. In Lakeville winters, ice and packed slush at the threshold can also cause this.
If it only closes when you hold the wall button
That often points to a sensor issue. Many openers will let you override sensors by holding the wall button for constant pressure operation, but you should not rely on this long term. It is basically a workaround that tells you the system is unhappy.
If you are seeing any of these, it is time to inspect the usual suspects.
Most common cause: dirty or misaligned safety sensors
Safety sensors sit near the floor, which is the worst place in a Minnesota winter. They get hit with dust, salt residue, condensation, and the occasional bump from a shovel or storage bin.
When sensors cannot “see” each other properly, your door might refuse to close or it may reverse.
What to check
Wipe both sensor lenses with a clean dry cloth
Look for spider webs, dust, or salt film
Make sure nothing is stored near the sensor line
Confirm both sensors are pointing directly at each other
Check the little sensor indicator lights if your system has them
If you clean the sensors and it still will not close, it could be a wiring issue, bracket alignment issue, or opener logic problem.
That is a good time to book Garage Door Repair so a tech can test it properly.
For general safety context around garage door operators, the CPSC explains that automatic residential garage door operators must comply with a mandatory federal safety standard.
Free backlink to use in the blog: CPSC automatic garage door operator safety information
Second common cause in Lakeville: resistance at the bottom
This is the one that surprises homeowners, because the door looks like it is almost closed. But “almost” is enough for an opener to reverse if it feels resistance.
Things that cause resistance near the floor
Ice or packed slush at the threshold
Small rocks, acorns, or debris in the track area
Bottom seal that is stiff or torn
Uneven concrete that catches the seal on one side
Track alignment that tightens near the bottom
What to do
Clear snow and slush from the outside edge of the door
Look for ice buildup along the bottom seal line
Check the track area near the bottom rollers for debris
Do not chip aggressively with metal tools
If you melt ice, dry the area so it does not refreeze
If you notice the door hitting harder on one side, or rubbing, that can be a sign of alignment or hardware wear that needs professional attention.
Travel limits can drift and make the door stop short
Garage door openers have travel limits. That is how the opener knows where “fully closed” is. If those limits drift or get misadjusted, the door can stop early or reverse.
This is especially common after:
A power outage
A new opener install
A door that has been binding and stressing the opener
Seasonal changes that increase resistance
You can sometimes reset or adjust limits, but if the door is binding or unbalanced, adjusting limits is not the real fix. It is like turning up the volume on a problem.
If you suspect opener settings, book Garage Door Opener Repair so the door system and opener can be evaluated together.
A worn spring can cause closing issues too
Most people associate springs with opening problems. But springs affect the balance of the entire door. If the door is out of balance, the opener can sense abnormal resistance during closing, especially near the bottom.
Signs balance might be involved
The door feels heavier than it used to
The door closes too fast or feels like it wants to slam
The opener sounds strained
The door does not move smoothly, especially in cold weather
If you suspect springs, do not try to adjust them yourself. Spring systems are under tension and should be handled by trained techs.
A helpful free resource you can reference for safe operation and maintenance is the DASMA opener safety and maintenance guide.
Track and roller issues can stop the door right before it closes
If the door is binding in the tracks, it may still travel most of the way down, then stick near the bottom where alignment is tightest.
What binding can look like
The door shudders during closing
You hear grinding or scraping near the bottom
One side seems to lag behind the other
The door reverses with no obvious obstruction
In winter, rollers and hinges can get stiff if lubrication is not right, and that adds to resistance.
This is where a tune up can save you from an emergency call later.
What you should not do
When a door will not close all the way, these are the common moves that create bigger problems.
Do not keep pressing the remote over and over
Do not increase opener force settings as your first move
Do not bypass safety sensors long term
Do not try to “help” the door down by pushing it hard
Do not attempt spring adjustments
If the system is reversing, it is doing that for a reason. The goal is to find the reason, not overpower it.
When this becomes an emergency
A door that will not close is not just annoying. It is also a security issue.
Call for Emergency Garage Door Repair if:
The door is stuck open and you cannot secure your garage
The door is crooked or looks like it might come off track
You see a loose cable or hardware that looks unsafe
The opener is straining hard and the door is unpredictable
How we usually fix this during a service call
When we get a Lakeville call for a door that will not close all the way, the fix is rarely a guess. It is a step by step diagnosis.
A typical service visit includes:
Sensor inspection and alignment test
Track and roller inspection at the bottom bind points
Door balance check to see if springs are doing their job
Opener travel limit verification
Full safety test to confirm smooth operation
If the root cause is mechanical, we fix the mechanics. If it is opener settings, we adjust them after confirming the door is healthy.
Start here if you want it handled quickly: Garage Door Repair.
FAQ: Garage door won’t close all the way
Why does my garage door close then open back up
Most commonly it is safety sensors or resistance. The opener is designed to reverse if it senses an obstruction or unsafe movement.
Why does it stop two inches from the floor
This can be travel limits, bottom seal catching, ice at the threshold, or binding near the bottom track.
Is it safe to keep using the door if it eventually closes
If it is reversing or stopping, it is signaling a problem. It might close today and refuse tomorrow. It is best to have it inspected.
Does winter make this worse
Yes. Ice, slush, salt residue, and cold stiffening can all increase resistance and make sensors more finicky.
Ready to stop babysitting your garage door
If your garage door will not close all the way in Lakeville, you do not have to guess or keep forcing it.
Use these starting points:
If you want a full diagnosis and repair, go to Garage Door Repair
If it feels like an opener issue or settings problem, visit Garage Door Opener Repair
If the door feels heavy or unbalanced, go to Garage Door Spring Repair and Replacement
If the door is stuck open and urgent, choose Emergency Garage Door Repair
For prevention before winter hits again, book Garage Door Maintenance and Tune Ups
To schedule directly, use Contact
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